Monthly Archives: October 2014

I painted a hub and a fork of SR400.

I ended sandblasting although my booger turned black.

I hang it all out and it is standby for painting.

I hang the center stand of Bandit 250 incidentally.

I mix paint and prepare a spray gun.
The paint is Kansai Paint’s RETAN PG Hybrid.
After having painted with 1 liquid, I paint clear.
Then, it is a specification that the curing agent permeates from above and it hardens completely.

The paint was hardened and it was not in a very good condition.
Rather than painting a surfacer, such exterior parts do not crack when the screw is tightened by using a soft curing agent for plastics with no undercoat, directly on the surface.

I paint.

I intended to give luster about the hub this time.But, a rough mesh of the sandblast was left.
I think that the cause is either because the paint was old, or whether the sand was too coarse and unevenness were added too much.

・Blow the surfacer once and blow after polishing it.
・Many times painting the top coat.
・Change sand of blast into fine one.
・Use the new paint.
I think that I have to take measures of it in such a thing.

The paint was old, but I was relieved because it cured safely.

Hub and brake panels and sandblast

I want to paint the fork of the SR400 disc brake kit black.
In addition, I would like to paint another hub and brake panel.

I did sandblasting.



But, when sand is shot for a certain period of time, it becomes clogged with sand.
So I went to buy plumbing at Benizen, a tool store in Kasai city to add a filter.
I bought the anaerobic plumbing sealant incidentally.
Benizen is amazing when writing product features directly with magic.
If you read it firmly, it is written in a small letter officially.

This sealant is very stinky but it is very convenient.
Because it is anaerobic, it only hardens when it is in contact with the metal and the air is blocked.
So, like a de-oxime type, it is not a thing that something evaporates and hardens.
It is early to harden about a screw part wanting I to harden, but can construct it slowly until I interrupt air.
Because it do not harden, I can wipe off the sealant which overflowed.
And the sealant on the inside of the pipe is low risk of floating inside the piping as a lump.
It is very advantageous in terms of reliability and construction time even compared with seal tape.
Especially useful for piping of hydrogen molecules which are small and leaky easily.

I added a filter using this, but the symptom was not improved.
It is not caused only by water droplets or oil mist, but water vapor melting in air seems to be a problem.
Should I buy a frozen air dryer?
It is very expensive.